• Preparation shellac

There are various names for the same technique, French polishing, a pillow, a wick, pad, rubber and lacquer all show the same processing procedure. The substance used for this type of finish is shellac, a resin of a tree produced by an insect. The shellac is sold in flakes soluble in alcohol: you can use alcohol to 94 ° in summer when the temperature allows for quick drying and alcohol at 99 ° in winter. Let's see how: should first prepare a basic solution by diluting a rather large part of shellac in two parts of alcohol in a glass container with a large mouth. After about half an hour the shellac is ready to be used as base coat for subsequent dilutions.

• Roughing

The first phase of this technique is called "roughing". For roughing up the complete filling of the pores of the wood on a stucco surface and restored. (The antique important, prestigious and invoice integrates with patina have already fully closed pore wood, so do not require this step). To fill the pores of the wood is necessary to have a special powder called "pumice", signed "double zero". The pumice is put into a square cutout of linen about 20 cm bag closed with string. This gimmick is used to filter the pumice. For the so-called pillow, the polishing pad should be instead the usual crop of flax containing a piece of fine wool. The measure depends on the size of the linen surface of the cabinet, it is clear that if we shine a machined part or a small cabinet build a small feather-brush. At this point it is necessary to have a liter bottle to use to further dilute the shellac: in three parts alcohol to a part of paint prepared earlier. Keep in mind that paint a finer polishing allows much more beautiful and refined, but on the other hand contributes to the long processing time. Now soaked piece of wool feather-brush with a moderate amount of paint, close the buffer and begin to turn on the surface of mobile counter-clockwise circles on it and moving quickly without stopping the feather-brush in one place for more than a second. This is necessary to avoid so-called burns (places where the paint melts added that entered previously) and is a trick to keep in mind for all stages of polishing. After two or three hands extended in this way we can distribute on mobile pumice, using the filter pad. The pumice should be in small quantities and evenly on the surface of the cabinet, after every two layers of feather-brush. Then cycle through pumice and shellac. However, without carefully follow this rule, it is important to remember that every time you use the pumice must also wet paint with the feather-brush, and you must press a lot to fill the pores of the wood. Backlit we will have to verify the filling of the pore and then left the cabinet for a day.

• Finish

This is the most delicate stage of polishing, usually aimed at those who have adequate experience and manual skills. We will attempt here to give some advice for those who, motivated by good intentions wish to try their hand at this art. Often happens after the rest day, the pores of the wood is slightly open, so in this case it is inevitable to add pumice and shellac. At this point we get a new pillow, if possible even finer cloth and also 's oil wine. Lightly wet wool and feather-brush on the outside add a drop of linseed oil. The oil used in finishing to avoid burns famous, that at this stage of processing would be really disastrous. It 'important to the economical use of oil, because it could resurface at a later time and ruin the polish. Start doing the usual circles counterclockwise this time without excessive pressure. Every two or three steps will help put a drop of oil on the feather-brush. You should continue this until you get a shiny texture. Now come into play sensitivity and experience of the restorer, to understand when it's time to bring out the gloss. It 'can try to press more firmly on the pillow, if we see signs of feather-brush are not obvious, then it's time to move the buffer along, following the direction of the grain to remove the traces of feather-brush and debris of 'oil. At this stage is useful to change the linen again: it is essential that the piece of wool is not wet, only damp to avoid ruining everything and have to start from scratch the finish. After the good work and let stand the unit for another half day to verify the complete removal of the oil, which could re-emerge inexorably to the surface if it had not been removed completely. If, as may happen, traces of oil make it opaque polishing, brush up on for a long feather-brush to restore the gloss. A tip is to not be absolutely essential in a hurry to finish because the polishing is a technique that takes time and patience. Polishing a normal drawer walnut Empire style, a restorer expert usually takes from 8 to 10 hours for roughing and finishing many. Furniture made of wood very porous, like mahogany, time can become much longer.